Gordon Eaton Signature Logo

Rocky Mountain National Park

It’s hard to imagine any place having a bigger impact on my life than Rocky Mountain National Park. My grandparents used to take me and my cousins there during the summer. I didn’t go every year, but the trips I did take left an impression that would shape my love of hiking—and eventually, rock climbing.

The adventure always began the night before, with a long overnight drive from Tulsa through the plains of Kansas. My grandparents would announce when we had crossed into Colorado, an event we would celebrate. We would usually stop in Boulder for breakfast at McDonald’s before heading up Highway 36 to Estes Park. Once in the park, we’d settle into Glacier Basin Campground, where my grandparents’ pop-up camper sat snug behind their Chevrolet van. I still remember that van—the plush interior, the dark wooden hexagonal tables—and the sense of cozy anticipation it carried.

Eventually, all of our families would make the trip together, caravanning from Tulsa overnight in a line of vans and campers. During our family trips we created family traditions that made each summer unforgettable: horseshoe competitions, races up Emerald Mountain—which we dubbed Eaton’s Peak—and collecting Trail Tags from our hikes, which our moms would proudly sew onto our sweatshirts over the next year. Evenings were spent around the campfire, talking about the day’s adventures and planning new ones. Grandpa always had his large video camera with him, capturing our hikes and misadventures. And during the hikes, if you asked him when we’d reach the end, he would notoriously say, “It’s just around the corner.” And eventually, it always was.

Days in the park were full of discovery. We hiked new trails making new memories and occasionally venturing into Estes Park to soak up the town’s charm. We would do laundry, shop, and go to the local slide. Every turn on the trail felt like a new story waiting to unfold, every summit a small victory. Those summers weren’t just fun—they were formative. They planted a deep connection to the mountains and sparked a dream of living in Colorado, a dream I realized in 1994.

Me in RMNP, 1980

Visiting Rocky Mountain National Park 

Elk descend into Estes Park during the fall rut.

The Stanley Hotel

For most visitors, the journey into Rocky Mountain National Park begins on the eastern side through Estes Park. The town feels like a classic mountain gateway, with plenty of lodging, restaurants, and gift shops to stock up on last-minute supplies. Just north of town sits the iconic Stanley Hotel, forever tied to The Shining and worth a glance even if you’re only passing through.

From Estes Park, you can enter the park via Highway 36, the main entrance, or Highway 34, which follows the Big Thompson River into the heart of the mountains. During the busy summer season, a convenient shuttle bus runs from the Estes Park Visitor Center, offering a stress-free way to get into the park and explore without worrying about parking.

The park can also be reached from the west through the quieter Grand Lake entrance. This side of the park has its own charm, with a smaller lakeside town offering lodging, shops, and restaurants on a more relaxed scale than Estes Park. In summer, the two sides of the park are connected by the spectacular Trail Ridge Road, one of the highest continuous paved roads in North America. Weather in the high country can change quickly so it’s always wise to check current road conditions before committing to the drive.

No matter which direction you arrive from, planning ahead is essential. Rocky Mountain National Park uses a timed entry system during the summer months, and entrance fees are required. Before you go, be sure to visit the park’s official website for the most up-to-date information on reservations, shuttles, and seasonal access: https://www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/index.htm

Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park

Emerald Lake in springtime with fresh avalanche tracks.

Hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park can be extremely dangerous, especially for those unfamiliar with high-altitude and alpine environments. Conditions can change rapidly, and lightning is a very real and frequent threat, particularly above treeline. Always check current weather forecasts and trail conditions before you start, and be prepared to turn back at the first sign of deteriorating conditions.

Carry the Ten Essentials and any additional gear appropriate for your route and season, including layers for sudden temperature drops. Several mountains within the park require advanced route-finding, scrambling, or technical skills. Longs Peak, in particular, is widely regarded as one of the most dangerous mountains in Colorado and should not be attempted without proper training, preparation, and experience.

Remember that your safety is your responsibility. In many cases, your rescue may also be your responsibility, both logistically and financially. If you lack the necessary skills or confidence, hiring a professional guide is a smart and responsible choice. Always check the latest conditions and advisories on the official park website before heading out.

And finally, always keep this saying in mind:
“Humans will always make mistakes. Gravity does not.”

Some of my favorite hikes in RMNP

Nymph, Dream, Emerald Lake

Probably the most popular hike in Rocky Mountain National Park, this trail starts at Bear Lake. Hike 0.5 miles to Nymph Lake and take in the stunning views. From there, continue around the lake and proceed 0.6 miles to Dream Lake, which is the lake featured in the photo. The trail then continues another 0.7 miles to Emerald Lake. The full round trip is approximately 3.6 miles with over 600 feet of elevation gain, making it a manageable and scenic hike for most visitors.

Details:
Trailhead: Bear Lake. Elevation 9,475ft
Emerald Lake Elevation: 10,080ft.
Distance: 3.6 miles

Read the Three Lakes Trip Report

Cub Lake

Start at the Cub Lake Trailhead, located near Moraine Park. Hike 2.3 miles to Cub Lake and enjoy the scenic views along the way. Return via the same trail back to the trailhead.

Details:
Trailhead: Cub Lake
Cub Lake Elevation: 8,630 feet
Roundtrip Distance: 4.6 miles

Read the Cub Lake Trip Report

Gem Lake

This is one of my favorite hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park, offering fantastic views of the Estes Park Valley. Begin at the Lumpy Ridge Trailhead and hike approximately 1.7 miles to Gem Lake, enjoying the scenic vistas along the way.

Details:
Trailhead: Lumpy Ridge
Gem Lake Elevation: 8,840 feet
Roundtrip distance: 3.4 miles

Read the Gem Lake Trip Report

Balanced Rock

Start at the Cow Creek trailhead, hiking along a gentle trail for about 1.2 miles before turning off for the Balanced Rock trail. Continue 2.7 miles to Balanced Rock. Return via the same trail to the Cow Creek Trailhead.

Details:
Trailhead: Cow Creek
Balanced Rock Elevation: 8,230ft
Roundtrip Distance: 7.8 miles

Lion Lake No 1

Start at the Wild Basin Trailhead and follow the trail to Lion Lake No. 1. It’s a beautiful alpine area, and when I reached the lake, I had it completely to myself. The solitude made the experience even more memorable.

On the same day, I continued on to Thunder Lake, which is also well worth the effort. After exploring the area, return the same way via the Wild Basin Trail back to the trailhead.

Be sure to check current trail conditions before heading out, and allow enough time for the round trip, especially if hiking both lakes in one day.

Details: 
Trailhead: Wild Basin
Lion Lake No 1 elevation: 11,065 ft
Roundtrip Distance: 14 miles

Shadow Mountain Lookout

This easy and scenic hike begins at the Shadow Mountain Lookout Trailhead. The trail provides panoramic views of the surrounding forests and Estes Park Valley as you make your way to the lookout. It’s a great option for a shorter hike while still enjoying the beauty of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Details:
Trailhead: Grand Lake East Shore Trailhead
Lookout Elevation: 9,923 ft
Roundtrip Distance: 9.6 miles

Gordon Longs Peak 1996

Longs Peak

Standing at 14,259 feet, Longs Peak is the crown jewel of Rocky Mountain National Park and is widely regarded as the deadliest mountain in Colorado. This mountain is why I started rock climbing—and that experience proved essential for this hike.

An alpine start is critical to help avoid the frequent afternoon thunderstorms common in the high country. Each time I attempted this hike, I started at 2:00 a.m. The route involves steep Class 3/4 terrain with significant exposure, requiring both physical strength and mental focus.

Do not attempt this hike unless you are in excellent physical and mental condition and are comfortable hiking and scrambling in a high-alpine environment. Just as important, never hesitate to turn around for any reason. It’s okay to fail—making it back safely is always the real success.

Route Stats – Longs Peak (Keyhole Route)

Peak Elevation: 14,259 ft (4,346 m)

Trailhead: Longs Peak Trailhead

Starting Elevation: ~9,405 ft

Round-Trip Distance: ~14.5 miles

Elevation Gain: ~5,100 ft

Route Type: Out-and-Back

Difficulty: Class 3 (brief Class 4 possible)

Exposure: Significant beyond the Keyhole

Typical Start Time: 1:00–3:00 a.m. (alpine start)

Best Season: Mid-July to September

Permits/Entry: Timed entry required in summer

Major Hazards: Lightning, falling rock, high winds, rapid weather changes

Risk Level: High ⚠️

Here are all the hikes I’ve completed in the Rocky Mountain National Park area. 

Bear Lake Trailhead

  • Nymph Lake 9,700 ft Aug-15-1986
  • Dream Lake 9,900 ft Aug-15-1986
  • Emerald Lake 10,100 ft Aug-15-1986
  • Lake Haiyaha 10,200 ft Aug-15-1986
  • Flattop MT. 12,324 ft. Aug-7-1997, Dragons Tail Couloir June-4-2000, Ptarmigin Glacier 1999
  • Hallett Peak 12,713 ft. Aug-7-1997
  • Bierstadt Lake 9,416 ft. Dec-22-1998
  • Lake Helene 10,580 ft. Jun-30-1998
  • Odessa Lake 10,020 ft. Jun-30-1998
  • Spruce Lake 9,660 ft. Jun-30-1998
  • Two Rivers Lake 10,620 ft. Jun-30-1998
  • Bear Lake 9,475 ft

Glacier Gorge Junction Trailhead

  • Alberta Falls 9,400 ft. Jul-22-1988, Jun-09-1998
  • Loch Vale 10,180 ft Jul-22-1988, 2000, Jun-21-2020
  • Timberline Falls 10,480 ft Jul-22-1988, 2000
  • Lake of Glass 10,820 ft Jul-22-1988, 2000
  • Sky Pond 10,900 ft Jul-22-1988, 2000
  • Andrews Glacier 11,680 ft 2000
  • Lake Mills 9,940 ft. Jun-09-1998
  • Jewel Lake 9,940 ft. Jun-09-1998
  • Ribbon Falls 10,580 ft. Jun-09-1998
  • Black Lake 10,620 ft. Jun-09-1998

Fern Lake Trailhead

  • Arch Rocks 8,220 ft
  • The Pool 8,300 ft. Jul 17,1998
  • Fern Falls 8,800 ft
  • Fern Lake 9,540 ft. Aug 9, 1986. Jun 30,1998. Oct 19,2014. Feb 21, 2020

Cub Lake Trailhead

Longs Peak Trailhead

  • Chasm Lake 11,780 ft. Sept 10,1994
  • Boulder Field 12,800 ft. Aug 15,1996,  Aug 28,1998, 2002
  • Key Hole 13,160 ft. Aug 15,1996, Aug 28,1998
  • Long’s Peak 14,259 ft. Aug 15,1996, Aug 28,1998
  • MT.Lady Washington 13,281 ft. 2002
  • Eugenia Mine 9,908 ft. May 26,1998
  • Storm Pass 10,260 ft. May 26,1998
  • Estes Cone 11,006 ft. May 26,1998

Lily Lake Trailhead

  • Lily Lake 8,940 ft. 2002
  • Lily Ridge Trail 9,120ft. Mar 11,2018
  • Lily MT. 9,786 ft. 2002

Wild Basin Trailhead

  • Copeland Falls 8,500 ft
  • Calypso Cascades 9,280 ft. 1998, May 28, 2012
  • Ouzel Falls 9,460 ft
  • Ouzel Lake 10,020 ft
  • Bluebird Lake 10,978 ft. Nov 1999
  • Sandbeach Lake 10,283 ft. Sept 1998
  • Lion Lake No. 1 11,080ft. Jun-28-2002
  • Thunder Lake 10,574 ft. Jun-28-2002

Finch Lake Trailhead

  • Finch Lake 9,912 ft
  • Pear Lake 10,582 ft

Chapin Pass Trailhead

  • Chapin MT. 12,454 ft. 2005
  • MT. Chiquita 13,069 ft. 2005

East Inlet Trailhead

  • Adams Falls 8,460 ft
  • Lone Pine Lake 9,900 ft
  • Lake Verna 10,180 ft

Coyote Valley Trailhead

  • Coyote Valley Trail 8,840ft.  Aug-16-2020

North Inlet Trailhead

  • Cascade Falls 8,800ft.  Aug-16-2020

Lumpy Ridge Trailhead

  • Gem Lake 8,820 ft. Jul-13-1998, Oct-13-2017
  • MacGregor Falls Jun-16-2019, Sept 26,2023
  • Balanced Rock 8,863ft.  Sept-03-2019

Green Mountain Trailhead

  • Big Meadows 9,400 ft

Lawn Lake Trailhead

  • Ypsilon Lake 10,540 ft. 2008

Cow Creek Trailhead

  • Bridal Veil Falls 8,880 ft. Oct-19-1998
  • West Creek Falls 8,140 ft. Jun-3-2012

Deer Mountain Trailhead

  • Deer MT. 10,013 ft. Dec-29-1998, July-11-2021

Colorado River Trailhead

  • Lulu City 9,360 ft 2002

Twin Sisters Trailhead

  • Twin Sisters Peaks 11,428 ft. Jul-16-1998 & Mar-14-1999

Other

  • Sprague Lake 8,700 ft
  • Emerald MT. 9,237 ft. Jul-20-1988, Jul-17-1998
  • Alluvial Fan Trail 8,640 ft
  • Chasm Falls 9,060 ft
  • Lake Estes 7,468 ft
  • Moraine Park
  • Eagle Cliff 8,906 ft
  • Bible Point 8,600 ft. Sept-5-2017
  • Big Elk Meadows Sept-14-2017
  • Crosier Mountain Aug 6, 2020
  • Toll Memorial Trail
  • Shadow Mountain Lookout Aug-15-2021

Indian Peaks Wilderness